Pishwas Through the Ages: A Timeless Silhouette from the Mughal Courts to Modern Pakistan

The pishwas is not just a dress — it's a symbol of heritage, elegance, and resilience. As one of the most iconic traditional Pakistani outfits, it has evolved through centuries, gracing the wardrobes of Mughal royalty, nawabi courtesans, and even the leading ladies of Lollywood and Bollywood.

Here’s a closer look at the journey of the pishwas — from royal courts to modern-day Eid and wedding wear.

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1. 16th Century and onwards — Mughal Beginnings

Style: Farshi Pishwas
Worn by: Royal women in the courts of Emperor Akbar and Jahangir
Key Features:

• Floor-grazing farshi hemlines

• Fitted bodices with heavy flares

• Rich, luxurious fabrics like brocade, jamawar, and silk

• Traditional motifs and handwoven textiles

Visual Inspiration:
Mughal miniature paintings featuring Mariam-uz-Zamani, Ruqaiya Begum, and other imperial consorts.

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2. 17th Century — Zenith of Mughal Grace

Style: Angrakha-style Pishwas
Worn by: Iconic figures like Nur Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal
Key Features:

• Side-tied crossover necklines (angrakha style)

• Lighter fabrics like muslin (a type of cotton), organza, and jamdani

• Delicate, nature-inspired embroidery

Visual Inspiration:
Court paintings from Shah Jahan’s reign showcasing musicians and royal women in flowing, layered garments.

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3. 18th Century and onwards — Nawabi Elegance & Anarkali Influence

Style: Anarkali / Kalidar Pishwas
Worn by: Courtesans, Lucknowi nobility, and elite women of the declining Mughal empire
Key Features:

• Multiple kalis (panels) creating fluid movement

• Pastel hues, chikankari embroidery, and gota work

• Romanticized femininity and storytelling through attire

Visual Inspiration:
Awadhi miniatures and folklore paintings of Anarkali, a symbol of beauty and rebellion.

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4. Early 20th Century — Pre-Partition Grace

Style: Simplified Kalidar Pishwas
Worn by: Elite women in Hyderabad, Rampur, and princely states
Key Features:

• Modest flares with minimal embellishment

• Paired with chooridars, ghararas, or long dupattas

• Layered with capes or silk shawls

Visual Inspiration:
Vintage studio portraits of Muslim women in graceful poses wearing understated yet elegant pishwas styles.

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5. 1950s–1980s — Lollywood & Bollywood Glamour

Style: Anarkali Revival
Worn by: Legendary actresses like Madhubala (in Mughal-e-Azam) and Lollywood stars of the golden era
Key Features:

• Dramatic flares and long sleeves

• Fabrics like velvet, silk, and embellished net

• A screen-favorite silhouette for romance and drama

Visual Inspiration:
Film stills from Mughal-e-Azam and Pakistani classics like Heer Ranjha or Umrao Jaan Ada, showing the pishwas as a symbol of timeless femininity.

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6. 2000s–Today — The Modern Pishwas Rebirth

Style: Mughal-Inspired Kalidars
Worn by: Brides, influencers, and fashion-forward women in Pakistan and beyond
Key Features:

• Massive flares (up to 500 inches), 20–32 panels by Tabassum

• Airy chiffons, sheer organzas, and delicately embroidered nets

• Light, versatile designs for Eid, weddings, and formal events

Visual Inspiration:
Editorial shoots from Pakistani clothing brands like Tabassum ,whose collections like Modern Maharani pay tribute to strong Mughal women with a contemporary design language.

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Why the Pishwas Remains Iconic in Pakistani Fashion

From royal Mughal courts to modern fashion runways, the pishwas has survived centuries of change. Today, it represents more than just tradition — it’s a feminine, fluid, and empowering silhouette that continues to inspire Pakistani women across generations.

Whether you're a bride, a fashion enthusiast, or a lover of heritage wear — the pishwas remains a dress that moves with history and heart.

** Some of the images used here are the property of Victoria and Albert Museum and have been used for educational purposes only.